Kevin Rathbun’s fourth Atlanta restaurant is a fine addition to his eponymous Rathbun’s, Kevin Rathbun Steak, and Krog Bar. KROG isn’t the official acronym for “Kevin Rathbun: Original Gangsta.” Not yet, anyway.
Steakbar sits in the Peachtree Hills neighborhood, and the first thing Kevin Rathbun fans will notice is…it’s really light, compared to his restaurants in Inman Park, and that makes it feel a little less intimidating. While Mr. Rathbun’s signature steaks are still on the menu, along with classics like fried artichokes with lemon, Steakbar ventures into classic Italian cuisine with pasta, mozzarella salad, and pappardelle bolognese.
As with all great restaurants, you don’t go there for the quiet. If you want that, Atlanta has many fine libraries. So you can expect a noise level that will vary from night to night — if you’re going during a celebration season like father’s day, graduation, or at any time during December, you’re going to be sharing the room with large parties that aren’t always using their inside voices.
In something of a culinary coup, Chef Rathbun convinced Top Flr alum, Tres Bullard to sign on to manage the beverage program, so you know that the cocktails are going to be outstanding.
Fried Artichokes with Lemon
A classicly simple dish, it’s nothing more complicated than its name suggests, but that’s often the hallmark of genius. This is one plate you’ll order and immediately want to share with the table, then have to order more.
Short Ribs on Polenta with Salsa Verde
Nestled in the middle of the meat selections is this gem. Short ribs are good anytime, but on a bed of polenta with a tangy salsa they’re especially good on a summer evening on the patio.
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